REVIEW: ROSE’

All you need to know about Rose’ is summed up in one communal table running the length of the restaurant.  Gaudily pink, it’s a tiled and mirrored affair that has three steps leading up to it on each side.  If, like The Monster you naively assume that is because this is a French restaurant and there will be fashion shows au contraire.  It is so the assembled masses may easily scale the table to dance.  Yes, dance.  Because there is above the bar an alcove for the DJ.  Yes.

When one enters Rose’ they are assaulted by the sheer pinkness of it all.  It is both a stunning tableau and a dizzying one.  Its effect is akin to swimming in a giant vat of cotton candy.  Or perhaps Pepto Bismal.  This is a restaurant that takes its cues from St. Tropez and doesn’t get going until late into the evening, and while the food on the occasion The Monster visited is better than expected one wonders how long that will continue given what seems to be the play here.

One’s tolerance for this restaurant will depend entirely on your mood.  If you come in with a sense of humor and allow that this is as much absurd theater as anything else you’ll leave happily enough if not a bit poorer.  If however, serious dining is your objective than think twice.  For Rose’ has as many patrons flitting about the bar and sashaying from table to table as those who have come to actually eat.  You are liable to see fashion choices that would be better served on a bichon frise and hear conversation that proves our species is doomed.

If you’re still reading then The Monster assumes you own a yellow Lamborghini.  Good on you.  On this night we sample the gazpacho anadlous, a cold tomato based raw vegetable soup with parmesan tuile; artichaut vinaigrette, whole warm artichoke served with balsamic vinaigrette; fillets de loup de mer grilles et ses panisses sauce au fenouil et ratatouille, grilled Mediterranean seabass, chickpea cakes, ratatouille, fennel emulsion; and one of the specials of the evening, the duck breast served with asparagus.

Each dish proves a happy surprise.  The duck especially is tender and rich, much more refined than one would assume the kitchen is capable of.  All diners agree that looks can be deceiving and the food exceeds expectations.  The soup is agreeably seasoned, the artichoke comes with a delicious vinaigrette and the seabass is tender and moist.

With drinks that cost the GDP of developing countries and take as long to make as a government filibuster, Rose’ offers up amiable enough service and better (for now) food than one would imagine.  Like the fickle Los Angeles club scene, one must wonder how long that will last.

Why go? Alexander McQueen and Ed Hardy are where you shop.

Monster rating: 3/5 Monsters

861 North La Cienega
Los Angeles, CA 90069

(310) 289-1294

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