What you make of the newly reconstituted Spago depends wholly upon the mood in which you walk in.
The remodel is smartly done, gone are the 80’s and in is a clean aesthetic that feels contemporary and even a smidge hip while still exuding a classy air.
The menu, also updated, is a greatest hits of worldly influence. You’ll find sushi and Italian and continental and feel comfortable ordering in the knowledge that the food will be delivered with aplomb by the courteous and professional staff.
So while the sushi starter is nice it is also small and overpriced. The pasta proves nearly perfect and feels like a bargain. The fish and crayfish transport you to another place altogether and feel worthy of its high tariff.
And yet you also must know that this place might serve fantastic food and wine but it retains a way about it that smacks of bad tourists and worse locals. The bar scene is old men and the women who like them and the dining room is lots of people from flyover states who are really important there.
Sometimes that doesn’t matter at all and sometimes that is the last thing The Monster wants to deal with. You decide.
Why go? You are visiting from Ohio.
Monster rating: 3½/5 Monsters