There is a moment before Bestia opens when the faithful are lined up outside in the recently hipified Arts District and the staff is inside and you hear them. Clapping. And yelling. Very loudly. It’s bit of a primal experience and it sets the tone for what is to come. For when the garage doors go up and the front door opens the ravenous and the faithful storm in and the show begins.
With its sleek look and innovative Italian menu and all around convivial vibe you get the feeling Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis, husband and wife chef and pastry chef, are having a lot of fun. As too are the diners, supping on wondrous pastas, delicious pizza and terrific starters.
Other than the grilled whole orata, rapini ripassati, anchovy paste, dandelion greens which is a lot of bones and a lot of hassle, there is not a misstep on the evening.
The roasted market vegetables literally taste of the earth in the best sense possible. The heirloom tomato salad, burrata, purslane, oregano, sea salt, candied lemon peel is equally as delightful as it is a work of art.
The pizza, burrata, San Marzano tomatoes, castelvetrano olives, oregano, fermented chilies is just perfect and the squid ink risotto, calamari, lobster, mussels, clams, hint of pesto is so insanely rich and deep as to make one question why all other risottos have failed them.
Service is impeccable, and sitting on the patio on a pleasant evening, an enchanting glass of wine in hand, Bestia is a delicious treat.
Why go? You are a beast.
Monster rating: 4½/5 Monsters
2121 East 7th Place
Los Angeles, CA 90021